An interesting, probably once-in-a-lifetime itinerary with our preferred line. Amazing scenery, chances to see wildlife one may not encounter again and a sail around ‘The Horn.’ Probably too many sea days, some billed as something else e.g. sailing the Chilean Fjords and some parts of call hardly inspiring but, despite some complaints about the ship, we enjoyed our time on Infinity and are looking forward to more cruising times ahead.
Embarkation
5 out of 5
Had an early booked slot and once we’d negotiated the sign-less route to the terminal, from the moment we entered to the moment we boarded (including a shuttle bus trip) was 15 mins. Amazing.
Ship experiences
Food and Dining
3 out of 5
We ate Celebrity Select so were in the Trellis Restaurant (MDR) deck 4. Reserving tables was a bit ridiculous; we were told to reserve where possible until one of the maitre d’s told us that we couldn’t between 1800 and 2000. Even though we were ‘Select’ we generally had dinner in the same section most nights so we became familiar with our waiter for whom nothing was too much trouble. However, as Concierge Class, we were told we had ‘priority dining’; the problem being that nobody could actually define what that was and it didn’t seem to help us in any way. Furthermore, upon every arrival in the MDR, we immediately asked for a veggie menu; sometimes it came, sometimes it didn’t. Tables weren’t always set to the same standard either. Several wines were out of stock from Day 1, the sommelier was able to recommend others but he was generally very busy. The music they played on the penultimate night when the staff do their little parade was obnoxiously loud. I approached the female maitre’d to complain, but like every other time we spoke to her, she seemed completely uninterested. Breakfast was always good in there and sea day lunches generally too. We used Tuscan Grille twice even though I feel the head charge is now unnecessarily expensive; $55 each plus extra if you want more than a regular steak e.g. Porterhouse another $18, all plus 20% gratuities, so about $151 for two. Not good value but the food was good.
Oceanview Cafe and Bar
3 out of 5
Oceanview Cafe was almost always chaotically busy. On two lunchtimes, I took food to our cabin to eat because it was impossible to get a table. This was not helped by staff allowing large groups to remain there playing games after eating. Great selection of food unless you were veggie when it was very limited but all tasted good.
Cafe al Bacio and Gelateria
4 out of 5
Great selection of drinks and pastries but difficult to get a table on sea days. When very busy, a manager or two helped out but sometimes we were sat for a long time before being noticed. Staff very friendly.
Onboard Activities
1 out of 5
Entertainment
3 out of 5
Cruise Director Alejandro was, as always, a genial host/presenter. A very funny guy who also compiled two further enjoyable presentations which we’d seen from him on the Apex in October. A real star. The cast shows were pretty mediocre with the singing particularly very dodgy. The juggler, whilst very talented basically did a ten minute act dragged out for about 50 minutes which included a glass-balancing section and a 5 minute video tribute to his family. For fellow British guests, I’m sure it felt like Butlin’s holiday camp material from the 60s. We were quite put off the other shows. However, the presentation talks from Celia were outstanding. Very informative about wildlife and Patagonia and a good double act with Alejandro.
Service and Staff
4 out of 5
Overall, we were very satisfied with the staff which, according to one member, is just about back to full levels. Some members were clearly new and still training so hiccups are to be expected but maybe we shouldn’t be guinea pigs until they’re trained sufficiently. I found table service in the bars to be slow and occasionally non-existent. On one occasion in the Constellation Lounge whilst waiting to be served, I caught one young waiter hiding behind a pillar, hands in pockets, watching the musical act. Our room steward, one of the dining room managers (Milan) and Donny & the Martini Bar guys were all excellent.
Ship Quality
4 out of 5
I’m puzzled at the derogatory comments from experienced cruisers about the state of this ship. A little Google search beforehand would have shown that she was supposed to have undergone a major refurb in 2020 but guess what happened that year? She’s now the last ship in the fleet waiting to be done. However, despite her age, there were few obvious signs of any wear & tear and to the reviewer who claimed they never saw common areas being cleaned, well either your complaints worked or you weren’t looking carefully because on our cruise, cleaners were everywhere. Our stateroom was fine with more than ample storage space (4 suit cases of belongings), generally in a decent state and well maintained by Jose our steward.
Cabin / Stateroom
4 out of 5
Concierge Class cabin (not sure the advantages for the extra cost). Well maintained albeit a little old. Comfortable bed, spotlessly clean, ample storage space, smallish shower room/toilet and hoping the refurb sees a shower door rather than a curtain.
Ship tip
Understand she’s old and awaiting refurb. If you have dietary requirements, seek out a manager early in the cruise and come to some arrangement for your meals. If at or near capacity, expect long waits for seating in Oceanview, especially at lunchtime.
We stayed a few days at the end. Many, many warnings about personal security, especially at night but we never felt unsafe after taking sensible precautions e.g. no jewellery, cameras or other valuables on display and keep your handbags secure. A nigh-on 4hr HOHO bus ride on our last day showed what a vast city it is and you only have to go a mile or so from the centre to see some beautiful parts. The modern area of Puerto Modero is very nice with lots of expensive restaurants and bars. MUST DO a tango show. We went to El Viejo Almacén which we were told was a more traditional show thoroughly enjoyed it. All prices were given in USD but we paid in Pesos and I reckon g it was 50% cheaper in doing so i.e.quote was USD 120 each but with our ‘blue dollar’ rate Pesos, it came out at about USD 65.
The highlight of the cruise for me as this is such an iconic location. We arrived about 0600 in the dark but the captain hung around for about 90 minutes through daybreak to allow us to feel the atmosphere and what an atmosphere. The sea was a bit choppy but nowhere near as bad as it could have been and even though we had winds gusting 45kts, this allowed the captain to get the shop in relatively close. He then rotated the ship slowly so everybody on all sides could see the Horn, the Chilean Naval-run lighthouse and the surrounding scenery. Not only did Alejandro and Celia run a talk throughout, they broadcast a radio conversation from the naval officer stationed there with his family; a fantastic touch. Just to say I’d sailed around the Horn, albeit on a luxurious cruise ship rather than a small boat, is something I’ll never forget.
The southernmost city in the world although Chile have upgraded one of the towns in attempt to steal that title. Beautiful snowy Mountain views and a fairly pleasant small area to walk about. We decided not to do an excursion this day; big mistake. There was so much more we could have done. A few money-exchange venues here (cambios or arbolitos) who will give you the ‘blue dollar’ rate from USD to Argie Pesos. NB: notes must be high denomination e.g. 100s and pristine with zero markings or rips.
A city with mixed old (some beautiful) buildings alongside some modern monstrosities. An easy, recommended walk into the city, however, a route littered with dog muck, broken pavements, graffiti and homeless. We walked in (took about 20 minutes) ate at a cafe the returned. Not a lot of time in port.
Enjoyable tour with a privately-booked company, the highlight visiting the small museum containing replicas of HMS Beagle and one of Fernando Megallanes’ ships.
Basically a sea day but billed by Celebrity as sailing the Chilean Fjords except that the sailing through them was done 0200-0500 so you’re in bed and you couldn’t see anything anyway. Con.
Probably our best excursion to see the Magellanic penguins at Punto Tombo, something we nearly missed due to poor weather, requiring a last minute decision by the captain to get the ship in. A long drive (2.5hrs) but worth it to see these lovely, calm and friendly creatures.
Like embarkation, quick and easy. Only downside was the taxis which were a rip-off. ‘$25 or AR$30,000’ and that was before we’d even stated our destination.
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