My Atlas Ocean Voyages Antarctica Expedition: Part 1 Pre-Cruise

Antarctica has been at the top of my bucket list for many years. As an avid traveler, one of my life goals was to step on all seven continents. Antarctica was obviously on the list to accomplish this, but I wasn’t fully prepared for what that meant or what was involved in achieving that goal. The Atlas Ocean Voyages’ Antarctica adventure cruise offers a once-in-a-lifetime expedition to one of the planet's most pristine and awe-inspiring regions. The following is a first-hand overview of my trip onboard Atlas Ocean Voyages as well as tips and things to know before you set off to Antarctica.

I was on the maiden Antarctic expedition of World Voyager and had the privilege of attending the christening ceremony. Previewing a new ship or sailing an inaugural voyage is always a thrill; nothing beats that new ship smell. It’s next level to find out the festivities will take place in Ushuaia, Argentina, and the voyage is nine days to Antarctica. Now, that is truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. Visiting Ushuaia has been at the top of my bucket list for about 20 years, and sailing to the 7th continent is the last to check off my world traveler list. Check. 

Once confirmed for the event and sailing, the planning began. I need to give props to my husband, who took the lead on much of the research, such as the clothes we needed, what to expect, the weather, etc. The starting point for this epic adventure was Buenos Aires, Argentina, where we spent three nights eating our way through the city. Best known for the Argentinian Beef, the Italian and Jewish cultures also influence the food scene in Argentina. There is no shortage of unique places to eat around the city, and compared to America, the prices are a fraction of what we spend at home for a night out. For example, we had two large steak entrees, calamari, salad, and four beers at the number two-rated steak house in Buenos Aires. Including a tip, our total was only about $50 USD. In Florida, where I live, just one steak alone would cost that or more in most restaurants. 

Tip: Currency Exchange - There are three exchange rates: the regular bank rate, the blue market rate, and the black market rate. Do not use the currency exchange at the airport or a bank unless absolutely necessary. You will find a much better rate using the blue or black market rates. The bank exchange rate when we visited was about 350 AP (Argentinian Peso) to $1 USD. The Blue Market rate was around 770 to 850 AP, and the black market was about 1000 to 1200 AP for every dollar. Now, the blue and black markets can be tricky to find (safely), but there are legitimate places. When in doubt, ask your hotel concierge for a referral or chat with the flight attendants on your flight. After all, most flights from the US are about ten or more hours, so you have plenty of time to kill. Plus, flight attendants are a great source of (local) information if they have visited the arrival city several times. 

I suggest flying a few days early for those considering a trek to the Great White Continent. First and foremost, to recover from jet lag and second, to get acclimated to the time zone and climate. I traveled from Florida, so the time zone and climate weren’t really an issue so much as just recuperating from an 18-hour travel day that included an overnight 11-hour flight. However, those from Australia, Europe, and other countries worldwide must consider the time to adjust and may need an extra day or two for acclimation. Important to note is that the Antarctic cruise season is November through early March, which is summer in the southern hemisphere. In Buenos Aires, this means hot and humid. Check the weather before leaving, as you will likely need shorts and T-shirts for the pre-days in Argentina.  

Tip: For those traveling early, pack what you need for the pre-cruise days in a separate bag or section of the suitcase so that it’s easily accessible.

As part of our trip planning, we quickly realized two important things. First, we live in Florida and don’t have a lot of cold (i.e., super cold) weather-appropriate clothing for Antarctica. The second factor was that we were limited to one suitcase each for the trip. I won’t lie; a bit of panic set in when we read that one checked bag each, maximum of 50 lbs. This restriction is due to the charter flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia. Having made the trip, I can easily assure you this “restriction” is very realistic to achieve and, in fact, super helpful to not over-packing. 

Like most warm-weather dwellers, we set out to Outdoor World (aka Bass Pro Shops) to be outfitted for waterproof/windproof pants, base layers, and anything else we thought we might need. In retrospect, we only needed some of the things we bought. With four planned days of polar landings on the itinerary, I assumed we would need four sets of base layers. Wrong. Likely, you only need two sets. The only time we donned our base layers was during the one-hour expeditions. While there are typically two outings per day, the base layers are needed only a few hours daily, so they are easily re-worn. Tip: Spray with Downy Wrinkle Releaser after each wear to freshen them up, and they are ready for a second or third day. 

Read More: Antarctica Packing List

The Atlas Ocean Voyage Expedition starts in Buenos Aires with an included pre-night hotel and an evening of authentic Argentinian entertainment and cuisine. An entertaining evening filled with tango and gaucho demonstrations, this cultural immersion is an excellent example of what sets Atlas Ocean Voyage apart from other lines in the region. The evening was the first opportunity to meet fellow passengers and make new friends. It was a magical evening between the dance, enthusiastic musicians, authentic cuisine, and the camaraderie of new friends. As a surprise bonus, we were picked up from the hotel in authentic Argentinian buses. These flamboyant buses once served passengers to reach points throughout Buenos Aires but now allow tourists to experience nostalgic history. 

The following morning, breakfast is served at the hotel in the early wee hours as the coaches start loading at approximately 4:00 am to head to the airport for the charter flight to Ushuaia. Be sure to eat breakfast at the hotel, as it’s a long travel day with very few opportunities for food. Checked luggage is picked up from the hotel and reunited with you upon arrival in Ushuaia. It’s important to note that you are leaving a warm and humid climate and heading to a much colder one, so you should dress accordingly. 

The charter flight is about 4 hours, and boarding passes are distributed on the coaches en route to the airport. There isn’t any way to request specific seats, at least not that we figured out. Since we were with fellow passengers for our voyage, it didn’t matter. Don’t worry; couples or parties traveling together were seated together. 

A snack is served on the plane consisting of a ham and cheese sandwich and a choice of chips or cookies, along with soft drinks, coffee, tea, and water. The selection is pretty limited, so if you are a picky eater or looking for something a little heartier, I suggest picking something up at the airport before boarding.

Upon arrival in Ushuaia, claim your luggage and re-check it with Atlas personnel, where it will magically be waiting in your stateroom when you arrive to the ship. 

Then, it’s time to pick a coach, load up, and spend the day touring Tierra del Fuego National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and an International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Category II park. Be sure to wear a jacket or sweater for the trip through the park and the day in Ushuaia. We joked that this was likely the warmest we would be for the next nine days and was part of the acclimation immersion program for the Antarctic temps waiting ahead. 

Tierra del Fuego National Park is the southernmost part of the world. Located in Argentina, it borders Chile and is where the Pacific and Atlantic oceans meet. It’s also the end (or beginning, depending on how you look at it) of the Andes Mountain Range. 

Our guide through the park told us about the history of the area, the biodiversity, and commonly spotted wildlife, to name a few. During our trip through the park, we were treated to a display of energetic sea lions playing in one of the lagoons. Our guide assured us this was uncommon for this particular area. We also encountered numerous varieties of birds and the most spectacular scenery of snow-capped mountains. At one stop by a lake, I could put my hand in the water and report that the water was, in fact, VERY chilly. 

After an educational day in the park, it was time to head to our home for the next nine days, the new World Voyager. It struck me as I stood on the pier anxiously anticipating what was to come that I was currently in the southernmost part of the world. Let that sink in for a few minutes. For the next nine days, I would be two days from civilization as I know it. I was setting off for the most remote part of the globe, the very bottom of the Earth—a place that most people would never think to travel to or have the opportunity to experience. I was in awe, I was excited, and most of all, I was thankful. 

Continue Reading: Part 2 - The Cruise

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